Back Foam 2
Supplying these instructions does not imply that the end user should do their own foam replacements, or that your foam replacement
will work out properly. There are no warrantees implied...... please use common sense. I suggest you read everything here before
starting installation. Recommended glues: brown rubber cement (Pliobond, Goo), NO epoxy, elmers, crazy glue, cyanoacrylate,
I've done hundreds of these so I've settled into a certain comfortable order: Remove old mirror
bumpers and clean, remove hinge foam / slot foam and clean areas. Clean all areas of old foam residue with denatured alcohol.
Install mirror bumpers, run a fine bead of rubber cement in slots. Install long bottom slot foam, then top slot foam. Do not
foam over counter reset tab in top slot. Install hinge foam. DO NOT use a product called "Goo Gone" as a cleaner. It is
VERY oily, will run everywhere and will cause oozing permanent damage to your camera. Once an oily substance is introduced
into a camera, you will never be able to get it all out.
1: Dampen slot foam with a little denatured alcohol. Allow to set for a few minutes. I have specialized tools for this, you can try
using a square toothpick. I use a chop stick with one end ground down in the shape of a flat screwdriver tip. After the bulk of the
old foam is gone, clean slots, hinge area and mirror pad areas with lens tissue and denatured alcohol or other suitable cleaner. Do
NOT use strong solvents like MEK (methyl ethyl ketone) as they can melt plastic, remove paint and generally make a mess of your camera.
Also solvent fumes in general are dangerous. and HIGHLY FLAMMABLE (some are carcinogenic). Even with denatured alcohol, you should
always work in a well ventilated area, away from open flame. Allow to dry. Applying solvent may cause leatherette to curl up
(more than it already is.)
2: Make sure old foam residue along edges of back cover and hinge area is completely cleaned off. Be VERY
careful cleaning old foam away from the focus screen area.
3: Scrape off old mirror pads, clean area with denatured alcohol. Shutter MUST fire before mirror would touch the new foam
pads. If mirror hits pads before firing shutter, your camera needs service,
4: The OM-1 through 4Ti foam
kit, as supplied by Camtech has 6 pieces. The hinge and mirror pads are self stick. Self stick pieces are pre-cut to proper size and
will not require trimming. My mirror pads are rectangular, not L shaped. The pieces for the slots should be glued in with a thin brown
rubber cement like Pliobond or Hobsco's (then renamed "Walthers") "Goo"*. Note I am NOT talking about clear rubber cement as sold
by art supply or craft stores. You should be able to find the correct glue in either a well stocked hobby or hardware store. NEVER
USE silicon rubber cement, epoxy, crazy glue (cyanoacrylate), Elmers white glue or (as mentioned) "white" rubber cement
sold by art supply houses.
5: If you use the wrong cement, THAT will be harder to clean out than the old foam, and may make your
camera "beyond repair". Camtech will not repair such cameras. If you use the wrong type of glue or even too much of the
correct glue, the back of the camera may become permanently glued shut.
Glue should be applied with a fine applicator . I use an item
called "Mikro Tips" (also sold by Walthers, item # 904-302.) Camera slot is shaped like a squared "U" when viewed from the end and
glue should be on the bottom of the "U" only!
6: As you press the foam into the slot (start from hinge end) keep foam straight and
feed it in to the slot as you go along until you get to within about 1/2" of the end. Trim with sharp scissors, and press into
end of slot. Do not let foam twist in a spiral as it is pressed in. Avoid stretching.
7: There are 3 slot pieces. 5 1/4", 4 1/4" and 1" (approx.) The smallest piece goes top right, between the counter reset tab
and the hinge. Next largest goes from the left of the counter reset tab to the left (latch) side of the body. Longest piece goes in
the bottom slot.
8: Along the top slot, about 1" in from the right end, there is a small metal tab. This tab moves in and out when
the back cover is opened and closed, engaging the frame counter or releasing it, allowing it to reset to zero. Be very careful not
to get glue on this tab, as doing so will, well.....you know. Your counter will not reset to "0" if gets gummed up with old foam or
9: Don't try to reposition foam after it has touched the glue. Stretching foam slightly during installation may be unavoidable,
but do not stretch too much.
10: You can get Walthers "Goo" and Micro tips at:
Product numbers are: Goo - 904-299, Mikro tip - 904-302 . Buy them through Walther's
11: HINGE FOAM: Self stick IN ALL FOAM SETS. OM bodies (1 through 4Ti, OM-10, G, 20, F, 30, PC, 40), remove backing
paper and apply.
12: MIRROR PADS: Self stick.
- Hobsco's "Goo" (a glue) is no relation to "Goop" which seems to be carried by many hardware stores. "Goo Gone" is an oily cleaner
that should never be applied to a camera. Both "Goo" and "Pliobond" are available in small 1.125 oz. tubes from (some, many, most)
local hobby shops. You can also buy it and Mikrotips from www.walthers.com and their retail arm, Terminal Hobby.
Thanks to all of you who have been submitting suggestions for this instruction sheet, especially Dan Lau.
Camtech is not responsible
for any damage caused by the end user when he/she decides to do camera repairs at home.
John Hermanson, Owner
Prism foam damage may look like this when you look through the finder.
Dedicated to Preserving the OM System
4/9/17: Please note our NEW email address!!